Heritance Kandalama is worth visiting for the building alone - I can't remember being this moved by architecture. If the idea of a hotel built into forest, with sweeping views of lakes and mountains, and of sharing open corridors with monkeys and bats delights you, then you can't do better. The highpoint of our stay were our three tours (bird watching, jungle hike, and the free architectural tours - our birdwatching by boat tour was canceled on account of rain) with in-house naturalist Nalinda. Nalinda's vast knowledge and pride in the place (building and forest) made our walks with him one of the high-points of our time in Sri Lanka. Since elephants are roaming freely through the property, it isn't entirely safe to go walking without expert supervision. Thanks also to Lakmi who checked us in, and all the other staff, who looked after us wonderfully throughout our stay. My one suggestion: maybe install some kind of general tip box at reception so visitors have an easy way to thank the cleaners and cooks etc we don't interact with directly.